While in Phnom Penh I discovered that you could watch traditional Kun Khmer Kickboxing for free. I went expecting to see some amateur fights, but ended up seeing more than I expected. I got front row seats to professional bouts being screened to the whole country.
Many TV stations in Phnom Penh film live kickboxing matches and are always looking to fill seats. If you do some research while you are in the city, you might be able find a show being filmed at the weekend. Check local facebook groups, ask taxi drivers or other locals, or just save yourself some effort and book a tour. Then, if you show up, you can grab a few beers and enjoy some live kickboxing for free.
I found one show and decided to go and watch the fights. I booked a tuktuk to the studio. It took me to a local neighbourhood on the outer edge of the city, one that clearly wouldn’t be frequented by tourists. There was no sign that this was the right place, just a wide yet dark alleyway. It seemed ominous, but I’d come all the way out here. No point in turning back now.
I walked for a short while but there was still no sign I was in the right place. I could see a large building looming over the small homes around me. I knew that must be the stadium so I kept walking toward it not knowing what to expect. Then I saw a row of stalls selling snacks and drinks, and felt a wave of relief. I knew I was in the right place now. I followed the stalls and found a small table set up to sign people in.
After a short conversation, and stopping to buy a beer of course, I was led to the ringside seats. Other tourists were here, most of them with a tour guide.
The setup was a lot more than I expected. In the middle was a large boxing ring, of course. A large walkway connected the ring to a stage. The stage was backed by huge screens, as tall as the building itself. These would show the upcoming matches, fighters’ stats and, of course, many advertisements.
The ring and the stage were lit by many studio lights hanging from the rigging above. Around the edge of the room and less well lit were the stands, seating many others who had come to enjoy the show. I was in awe. I had expected fights at a local gym, but this was a boxing stadium with professional bouts being broadcast to national television.
The fighters weren’t all Khmer. Flags were displayed on the screens and we could see many were from Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, and other nearby countries. This wasn’t just a national competition, these were international matches.
Announcers took to the stage and the filming began. I couldn’t understand what they were saying, of course, but they were getting the audience amped up for the fights to come. After a short introduction it was time for the fights. The fighters walked on to the ring one at a time, giving a chance for the audience to cheer and show their support.
In a similar manner to Muay Thai, Kun Khmer fights start with a prayer-type ritual. Every fighter would do this before the fight, showing respect for their teachers and their opponent. When a round starts, they play traditional Khmer music. The tempo of the music increases as the round goes on and I felt myself getting amped up as it did so. I wondered if the fighters felt the same, if the music pushed them to be more aggressive as time went on.
The fights themselves were exciting to watch. The fighters were all professional, though their skill levels varied. Some fights would go on for three whole rounds, as the fighters tested each other with kicks and punches, trying to get in close for those elbows. One match ended with a KO after less than a minute into the first round.
Watching them reminded me of when I used to train, and I wondered if I could get back into it. I’m getting older now, but I’m not too old. I still haven’t gone back to training at the time of writing. Travelling long term like I do makes things like this difficult.
The final bout was a championship match, and the crowd went crazy for the local Cambodian fighter. I didn’t know who these fighters were, but they were definitely a big deal for this crowd. When they were finally in the ring and the first round started it lived up to the hype. These two fighters knew how to move, when to strike, how to bob and weave.
In the end the local fighter won, and this made the crowd ecstatic. The presenters, followed by cameras, went on to the stage and interviewed each of them after the match. After they did a closing presentation things started to wind down.
I got the opportunity to take pictures with the fighters, and I didn’t pass it up. Unfortunately, I followed the night up with a few drinks in the town center and lost my phone. Many of the pictures and videos I took this night were lost with it, but thankfully I still have a few memories left.
But really, it just means I’ll have to come back next time I’m in Phnom Penh.
