While I was in Almaty, I wanted something to read, so I did some research and discovered there was an English-language bookstore in the Dostyk Hotel. Polygon Int had a small selection of second-hand books, but I found one written by someone who had lived in Almaty after the fall of the USSR.

Part travelogue, part history, Once in Kazakhstan is the diary of Keith Rosten, a Russian-speaking American who lived and worked in Almaty during the early years of Kazakhstan’s independence. Through his eyes, we follow the country’s attempts to build a democratic system, introduce its own currency, and forge a national identity.

The historical context serves as a backdrop to Rosten’s personal experiences living in Almaty and traveling around the country. His anecdotes offer unique insights into everyday life during these pivotal moments. Where history books often present events in broad strokes, Once in Kazakhstan gives us a ground-level view of how those events played out in real people’s lives.

For example, the creation of the Tenge, Kazakhstan’s national currency, was a critical step toward full independence. Rosten doesn’t just describe the political move; he details the day-to-day chaos that followed. Wild fluctuations in its value, the impact on the average person’s buying power, and the complications faced by a foreigner relying on the exchange of US dollars to survive.

While it’s not a history book in the traditional sense, Once in Kazakhstan is a valuable primary source. It offers a personal and accessible look into a fascinating period of transformation. Anyone curious about modern Kazakhstan will find it a compelling and insightful read.