We were in Huay Xai, a border city in Laos. Across the river we could still see Thailand, a place we were already missing. On that day we would take the slow boat to Luang Prabang, a journey that would span multiple days.
Boarding
We were unable to book tickets in advance, so we had to be up early to get to the ticket booth for the slow boat. After buying our tickets we made our way to the boat. The jetty was a long thin stone path all the way down to the river bank. With our heavy suitcases this was difficult to traverse – I really need to invest in a backpack instead.
At the bottom of the path we got some help putting our luggage on the boat and found a seat. We still needed supplies for the journey, so we could leave and come back before the boat departs. They said we still had time, so we made our way back to the top of the path and lit up. While we got our last nicotine fix, we watched as others arrived for the boat.
The restaurant where we ate the day before was nearby, so we went to get one last meal before the boat. Of course, we stocked up on beer and snacks for the long boat ride ahead. It would be around 8 hours before we get to Pak Beng, our first stop on the way to Luang Prabang.
The departure time was nearing, so we made our way back down to the boat and managed to get the same seats. The Mekong River flows down the border, so it would be a while before we finally lose sight of Thailand.
Departure
The engine started to grumble and the boat slowly pulled out of the dock, carefully maneuvering around the other boats in the dock. Once the boat got going down the river it was a smooth ride, nothing like the bumpy rides over the strong waves near Koh Tao.
After finishing a beer, we figured out where we could smoke on the boat. It was near the back where the engine was. In this part of the boat were the locals, most of them sitting around the floor. You could smell the fumes from the engine, probably less healthy than the cigarettes themselves.
After a short while a storm hit, and thick sheets of rain suddenly pelted the river. The rain roared as water splashed into the boat, pooling at our feet. People on board started to pull out their waterproofs. I pulled up my bag, worried about the laptop inside getting water damage.
The boat crew ran up and down, pulling down plastic curtains to cover the windows and protect us from the rain. These curtains blocked out the light creating an eerie atmosphere.
As the rain subsided, I found myself fixated on the last corner of Thailand that we would see, watching it fade into the distance as the Mekong guided us deeper into Laos. I hoped it wouldn’t be the last time I saw Thailand and the friends I had there.
The rest of the journey was calm and serene, a stark contrast to the stormy conditions in which our journey began. The heat of the jungle dried us out, and we felt the calm flow of the river beneath us. I still kept my bag, and my laptop, on top of a seat just in case it rained again.
I took in the flora and fauna, lots of cattle tied up by the river, wild deer dashing back into the jungle. We had a couple of stops along the way, were kids would come on board and sell some local snacks. They weren’t too expensive so we bought one to try. I wasn’t much of a fan.
Pak Beng
Eventually we would come to port in Pak Beng where we would spend the night. We hadn’t booked a hotel yet, advice online indicated it would be easier to just find a place when we arrived. We disembarked and headed up the hill to find a place for the night.
As we trudged up the steep hill to Pak Beng, a chorus of eager voices surrounded us, children clutching at our arms and gesturing for money. Their persistence was both endearing and disconcerting – I’ve seen first hand how beggar pimps use children in other countries. Knowing this, I didn’t want to risk giving them any money, so we held onto our wallets until they finally let up. As always I felt guilty about this, it’s hard to say no to a child, especially if there’s a chance they might actually need that money.
Now, we were free to look for a room for the night. We found the Thip Phavan Guesthouse with a room to spare. It was cheap, and was for only one night, so we agreed to stay. Of course, we still had no cash on us, so had to go to a nearby bank machine to pay the hotel.
When we found one it was surrounded by those very same kids that had followed us up the hill. Reluctantly, I used the machine, and was careful on the walk back to the hotel. I wondered if this would be a theme as we moved through Laos. It is one of the poorer countries in the world, largely due to the French occupation and the USA’s mass bombing of the country. I wondered how much impact colonialism had had on the country’s culture and reactions to visitors like us. It’s understandable that people may resort to panhandling.
We only had one night here so we set out to explore. We followed the smell of barbecued food to a street food market that was still open, so had our first opportunity for some local Laos food.
The market was a little bare, and was very dimly lit as the sun was setting. We could make out a couple of stalls selling noodles on one side of the near-empty square, though their aroma was faint. On the other side of the square we could see steam coming from another stall that was selling a barbecued meat. At the back of the square on the steps leading to a large building was a family selling beer and soft drinks.
I had some chicken wings, which were cold and not the best introduction to Laos cuisine. Still, it filled our bellies enough, and I was able to wash it down with some Beerlao, the local beer. I didn’t want to judge local cuisine based on this experience – it didn’t seem reflective of what food would be like in general. But I did like the beer. I have a thing for light lagers, so Beerlao is perfect for someone like me.
We wanted a drink, so we went to visit the aptly named Happy Bar. Here we bumped into a group of young Brits who were on the boat with us. We had a couple more Beerlaos and played a few games of pool before returning to our hotel to rest up for the night.
Journey to Luang Prabang
The next day we went back to the boat for the second leg of our journey. This would take us to Luang Prabang, our first real stop in Laos. We had caught a glimpse of the culture in the border towns were tourists would pass through, but this would be the first stop in a tourist destination.
We had survived a storm on the river, and were looking forward to finally getting a chance to explore our first real town in Laos. The UXO Visitor Center is in Luang Prabang, where we would be able to learn more about the bombing of the country, and why it is the way it is today. I looked forward to experience some real Laos cuisine, learning more of its history and culture, and, of course, drinking more of its beer.
