One unique experience you can have in Vietnam is the traditional water puppet show. It is believed to have originated as a form of entertainment in the 11th century in the northern Red River Delta. It has since spread across the country, and can be seen today as far south as Ho Chi Minh City.
We went to the Golden Dragon Puppet Theater to experience one of these shows. You’ll find it right in the middle of Ho Chi Minh City, in between Tao Dan Park and the Independence Palace. It can fill up quite quickly, but you can purchase tickets ahead of time to guarantee a seat. We showed up early, then grabbed some street food outside the theater while we waited for the show to start.
Most of the audience were Western or Chinese tourists. While it seems few locals attend these days, it’s impressive that such a skilled troupe keeps the tradition alive. On your way in, you’ll receive English-written brochures explaining the stories in the show.
The theater is small, which means you should be able to see the puppets even if you are a few rows back. Still, sitting closer to the front nets a better view. The stage is decorated with a faux Vietnamese temple with a pool in front of it. On either side are places for the musicians to sit, who play traditional instruments during the show.
Photography is allowed at the show, as long as there is no flash. But you should bear in mind how this might affect other people’s experience. No one wants to be sat behind someone filming the whole show.
The play is told in 17 acts, each with its own story. One act shows us agricultural life on the river, a glimpse into how traditional farmers would take advantage of the river to grow crops. Another act shows fishermen attempting to catch fish, a comedic segment where the fish elude and taunt the angler, catapulting themselves at their faces. One act shows a traditional boat race, giving a sense of movement down a long river despite the limited size of the stage.
I particularly enjoyed the animal segments, as each animal became its own character. The water dragon, both hunting and being hunted, was one of the highlights of the show.
Each act is accompanied by traditional music and song, performed by the band flanking the stage. They use drums, flutes, and even frog percussion instruments to create an atmosphere for each scene. The songs and voice acting are performed in Vietnamese. This might put some people off, but it’s easy to understand from the context, and if you miss something, a quick glance at the guide helps.
The puppeteers are remarkably skilled at expressing emotions through the puppets. One might throw their arms up in anger, another trembling with fear before fleeing a dragon.
I thought briefly about how the puppets were controlled, and imagined they were under the water holding their breath for the duration of the show. Of course, this isn’t how they actually do it. They stand behind the stage, waist-deep in water, and manipulate the puppets with long rods.
I initially thought the water would be a gimmick, but it’s central to the storytelling. The puppeteers skillfully use the water to hide control mechanisms and create the illusion of boats and animals floating freely on the river stage.
The final act is the Dance of the Four Holy Animals, featuring the Dragon of the east that embodies power, prosperity, and good luck; the Unicorn of the west that symbolises peace, good fortune, and sometimes learning; the Turtle of the north symbolising wisdom, longevity, and perseverance, and the Phoenix of the south representing virtue and grace. These are meanings rooted in Vietnamese myth and folklore.
Some people might find parts of the show repetitive, especially as it nears the end. But each show lasts only 50 minutes, so it doesn’t drag on too long for people who find they don’t enjoy it as much as they expected.
The show ended and the actors bow and accept their applause. This is definitely an entertaining way to spend an afternoon and learn a little about traditional Vietnamese puppetry. Would I go again? Probably only if I’m with someone new to Vietnam, but as a once-in-a-lifetime experience, it’s hard to beat.
