Nightlife on the Outskirts

While in Vientiane we wanted to explore the city’s nightlife. On this particular day we wandered toward the outskirts of the city, in search of the fabled Irish bar that many online had recommended. What we found wasn’t quite what we expected, but it turned out to be a good night for exploration, some unexpected detours, and a few drinks.

We chose to visit the i:cat gallery partly because it was on the way to another destination I wanted to visit. I had seen Tully’s Irish Pub mentioned online, and, as someone of Irish descent, I was intrigued to see how authentic an Irish Pub in Laos could be.

When we arrived at the pub it wasn’t open, so we decided to explore the area a little. Tully’s was located in a small shopping centre that was still under construction, built around a large open car park that reminded me of the sprawling parking lots common in many American cities.

A few bars flanked the area, Tully’s among them. There was another closed bar with a Laotian name we couldn’t read, and a German pub/restaurant. We were hungry and had time to kill, so we went to the German restaurant and ordered a pork knuckle. Despite being thousands of miles away from Europe, the pork knuckle was fantastic, crispy cracklin and all.

After our meal, it was still too early, so we wandered further. Nearby, we found a quirky bar/restaurant built on stilts over the river. They served local food, cold beer, and had a set up for live music. We stayed for a drink, soaking in the calm atmosphere before the night truly began.

Next, we took a walk around the nearby lake, which quickly proved hazardous. As dusk fell, it became harder to see the many uncovered manholes along the path. We decided not to push our luck and returned to Tully’s.

Tully’s wasn’t quite what I had pictured. While it purports to be an Irish bar, and it does serve Guinness, it its layout and vibe were more in line with a typical Asian bar. Instead of the cozy atmosphere of an Irish pub, it felt more like an Irish-themed club. You have table service, shared orders, and a stage with a professional band playing.

Still it was a fun experience. The band played some great songs, and you could go out the back to enjoy a smoke by the river and under the night sky.

Before calling it a night, we decided to check out the last bar in the shopping centre. Upon entering, we were invited to sit with a group of women already at a table, but politely asked for our a spot by ourselves. It quickly became apparent what kind of establishment this was. The staff seemed surprised when we ordered just one drink.

On the way back to our homestay, we stumbled upon another cluster of bars and restaurants. Live music was playing, so we stopped for another round of Beerlao. It was a good way to round off the evening.

It wasn’t quite the night we planned, but an adventure all the same. Vientiane’s outskirts may not be packed with iconic nightlife spots, but if you have time and curiosity, they offer a different kind of charm. For us, it was time to head home, rest our feet, and prepare for whatever adventure came next.