After leaving the healing waters of Neak Pean, there was time for one more temple before returning to Siam Reap. The next temple I went to has been left largely unrestored, but it is still impressive in scope. More than a temple, this was a place of learning, almost a bustling city in its own right.
Walking into Preah Khan feels like walking into a small ancient Khmer city. Like Angkor Thom, the path is lined with statues. The bridge over the moat bears similar statues of asuras and devas using the king of the nagas in the churning of the sea of milk. This was a larger temple, a place of learning, a city in its own right.
After passing the outer wall you are still not in the temple proper. Along the dirt path there are displays exhibiting photographs of the temple when it was first discovered. Trees line the path, having grown inside the walls and taking over the temple grounds. The temple itself, however, is still preserved.
The temple is flat, not a pyramid temple. After a long day exploring, it was a relief not to have to climb more steps to se what secrets it holds. It is surrounded by yet another wall, an extra layer of protection from the outside world.
Despite having a pattern of rectangular paths, the inside the temple can still feel like a maze. Along the main corridor leading from entrance to entrance can be found yoni, as is common for temples in this area. At the center of the temple is a small stupa, serving as the focal point for this small city.
Outside the temple can be found small libraries. One of these is mostly intact, but others have been reduced to piles of rubble. Very little work has been done to restore this temple, and the moss growing on its walls are slowly eroding the stone. So it’s surprising how intact the temple is after all this time.
The inner temple hasn’t been completely safe from the outside. One of the buildings has a tree stump growing out of it. Conservationists have cut down the tree, but the base and its roots are still embedded in the structure of the temple. I wonder if it will be removed one day, but for now it is part of the structure. As I leave the temple I notice a skink crawling on one of the pillars. A reminder that nature will thrive even when humanity leaves.
